Learning to sew and knit has made me the worst customer (well, in the best possible way for me). I’ve become so picky about tiny details and won’t tolerate anything that looks wrong to me, no matter the fabric or price point (but especially not at Tibi’s price point)! That sweater and skirt would have driven me crazy too...
Here’s to being ‘the worst’ customers!! 😉 I do think learning these skills changes how we see things; it’s not the only avenue to developing a keen eye for detail and quality, but it’s a fast track, for sure. I’d like to think the silver lining of complaints is signalling to brands what we’re rejecting as subpar—but I fear that might be wishful thinking on my part!
Ps. And I’d love to hear more about your sewing and knitting 🧶
I’m always hoping they really do pass our comments along to their design teams, but like you, I’m a bit doubtful about how much it actually changes.
I learned to sew during my second maternity leave, but I have to admit it never became as much of a passion for me as knitting. I did enjoy learning it though (and I’m glad I can alter some things myself now!). Unfortunately, I haven’t been able to knit recently because of some shoulder pain, but hopefully I’ll be back at it soon. What are you currently knitting?
Oh that’s such nice (and super productive) me time for your mat leave—wow and love that! I dream of knowing everything sewing, but for now knittings my ultimate anti-scroll. I’m currently on Ozetta’s Lakes Pullover; it’s not new, but it’s a good one! I hope your shoulders up to more v soon 😊
I can't seem to find any online sources describing it, so the following analysis is solely based on 40 years of experience as a handknitter and a casual observer of machine knit garments. The upper part of the neckline looks like it is shaped by decreasing a stitch on every row (it is what forms the line leaning outwards). Decreasing on every row always (in my experience – and I did it for two decades on all my socks) ALWAYS ends up asymmetrical because one of the decrease lines pulls open, as it has very visibly done on the light sweater. Without knowing the exact technical terms it has to do with the fact, that by "bunching up" yarn (the decrease is made by knitting two stitches together) you create af point of extra tension that pulls at the weaker stitch right next to it. Why it is asymmetrical probably has something to do with twisted tension nature of yarn (fibers spun in one direction) and thus being better at holding together a left leaning decrease than a right leaning. That is why normally you only se decreases on every other row in both handknitting and commercial knitwear because the row with no tension drama helps to pull everything nice and smooth. The interesting thing is, that the dark sweater seems to have a little bit of the same issue but on the other side(!) of the neckline. My theory is, that the designer had very little experience with knitwear and made poor construction decisions. In case of the dark sweater the manufacturer saved the day through some kind of experienced craftsman trick (possibly knitting from the wrong side since the issue is on the other side). Somehow the brief got lost or they changed manufacturer for the light sweater and no one at the brand knew to check for it.
Same. This happens when I’m knitting and trying to decrease. It always looks different on one side. While mot intentional, this may be proof that it was had knit.
Camilla — wow, 40 years’ experience, that’s incredible! Hopefully 40 years of joy too. Thanks so much for sharing your perspective, it’s really interesting to hear.
I’ve definitely seen this kind of unevenness in my own decreases too, Carolyn. But I can’t imagine these pieces are hand-knit. I didn’t think anything on the high street would be, and even at the higher end? I’d love to understand that better. Wouldn’t the body be knit in the round if it were hand-knit, just to save time, rather than seamed? Lots of questions…
Then again, even machine-knit pieces rely on the same stitching principles, so it does seem like a tension issue in the decrease stitches. The inconsistencies from piece to piece are harder to explain. But maybe the folded collar is attached individually?
My mother was a seamstress; you could say I grew up with a sewing machine, so I know fabrics and when something is sewn with care. I've always read fabric labels, which doesn't mean I don't make compromises sometimes. What outrages me most is the sewing of simple clothes from synthetic fabrics, selling them at high prices through intellectualization and marketing, and calling it design and fashion. This isn't fashion, these are just clothes with exorbitant markup. I always buy from sellers who accept returns without any problems, even if the price might be a bit higher than other sellers. Your lighter sweater had a visible flaw, and if anyone claims it was intentional, the designer should be fired for lack of design competence. Acne knitwear is the ultimate model for DESIGNING imperfections.
Thanks Pola! It sounds like you had the ultimate education (lucky you!) to set you up for discerning what’s well made and what’s not. And I agree with you on the intellectualization bit. I think the most insidious is the way brands explicitly spin cost-cutting decisions as ‘design features’ — it’s so, so off-putting as a consumer to be treated as stupid. I’m not sure who’s buying their rationalisation…it’s very curious.
At the same time, I do feel for brands having to deal with ‘returns culture’. It’s unsustainable on so many fronts and that there are customers who are abusing the system at the brand’s expense. I’m not sure what the answer is there, but a start is always going to be impeccable quality control + accurate product and sizing info from the brand, to reduce some of the issues for consumers.
Sorry for the delay - catching up!!! This was so well articulated. That idea that we’ve basically become our own quality control department really stuck with me. The inconsistency is what gets me. I can handle lower quality, but I cannot handle the unpredictability within the same item. This is a little similar (but different) - I just had it out with J.Crew over a pair of pants I love. I have them in several colors, and I went to wash them as usual… and they completely shrunk. Turns out they’re the only pair labeled dry clean only. I was pissed!!
Gee, my turn to apologize, I missed this or actually I feel like I replied but apparently not?! Anyway, thanks so much for your comment and I couldn't agree more with the annoyance of inconsistencies between the same item, including things sized differently that are indistinguishable. I also struggle with inconsistencies in quality from a single store - like one item seems really great value for the quality, and then another item seems like a total rip off for the quality....why?!
And boo for your pants - shrinkage sucks! Hope you were able to resolve that with JCrew.
I’m also one of the ‘bad’ customers. I pay close attention to quality stitching, finish and what I call the bikeability of a garment (that is its ability to be used while biking around Copenhagen where I live).
I’m pretty sure the stitching on your garment was not an intentional part of the design. It was rather a known production issue that is simply easier to work around when defined and explained to the customer as intentional design.
I know this issue from my own industry were manufacturers of certain pieces of equipment would claim – in this case – that something is a production flaw - rather than wrong design as otherwise thousands of owners of this equipment would suddenly have the right to a multi million dollar worth replacement.
Thanks Edwina 😊 It’s good to know I’m in good company as a ‘bad’ customer. Mostly we’re making these assessments of garments in the privacy of our own homes, and when brands push back on complaints, it’s not hard to imagine some consumers just put up and shut up.
It’s interesting what you say about manufacturing; that really resonates with my understanding of production too. With these sweaters both having identical flaws, it doesn’t feel like a stretch to imagine there’s an issue with at least part of their (re)stock. I’d be surprised if I were the first to notice. And you’re right, it’s easy to imagine they’ll still push to sell through any impacted stock because, business/$. Some customers won’t notice, and some won’t care.
But here’s to being ‘bad’ customers and hoping for higher standards.
Ps. Yes, bike-ability — that’s key functionality in your corner of the world!
The joy of getting something second hand from a brand I’ve never heard of, that is fabulous is incredible. As opposed to anxiously waiting for a new(far more expensive) piece from a well known brand, just to be disappointed is far more common. Although some pieces I bought new are also my favorites. Surprisingly several of them are Tibi. Yes, the prices are too high! My favorite new pieces are a cotton boyfriend shirt from Our Legacy and Levi’s selvedge 90’s jeans. It’s a crap shoot🫣
Oh, it’s such a crap shoot!! It’s also easy to get lulled into a false sense of security when you’ve been having a really good experience with a brand, and then boom: a piece that’s crappy quality. I think right from lower end of the high street through the middle market (and probably beyond, others will have to speak to that!), that there can be so much variability within a single brand, from one piece to another, and then from one garment to another. To shop second-hand, in person, so you benefit from early times when things weren’t so dire, and confirm first-hand that the quality it there….that’s the dream, if there’s time and good access for that.
I’m a professional sweater designer & experienced hand knitter- I’ve produced sweaters like the one you’re discussing many times.
The neckline has fully fashioned decreases- something that connotes luxury- which takes more work and time for the machine (or machine operator) to make that decrease. Because of how the knitting machine carriage moves, one side of the neckline could stretch more than the other. Linking on the doubled neckline could have also caused this stretching.
Knits, especially those that are 100% animal fiber like this, are very forgivable. If you hit that spot with steam, or washed and blocked the sweater, the issue would likely go away on its own. It is not a mistake at all or a sign of low quality- it is simply how yarn performs. The way this sweater is constructed is the nicest construction you can do.
Comparing light colors textiles to dark colored ones (even when all else is identical) is not apples to apples. Light colored yarn has to get bleached to get uniform color, which can make it feel thinner. Dark yarn has to hold a lot of dye, which can feel heavier.
Learning to sew and knit has made me the worst customer (well, in the best possible way for me). I’ve become so picky about tiny details and won’t tolerate anything that looks wrong to me, no matter the fabric or price point (but especially not at Tibi’s price point)! That sweater and skirt would have driven me crazy too...
Here’s to being ‘the worst’ customers!! 😉 I do think learning these skills changes how we see things; it’s not the only avenue to developing a keen eye for detail and quality, but it’s a fast track, for sure. I’d like to think the silver lining of complaints is signalling to brands what we’re rejecting as subpar—but I fear that might be wishful thinking on my part!
Ps. And I’d love to hear more about your sewing and knitting 🧶
I’m always hoping they really do pass our comments along to their design teams, but like you, I’m a bit doubtful about how much it actually changes.
I learned to sew during my second maternity leave, but I have to admit it never became as much of a passion for me as knitting. I did enjoy learning it though (and I’m glad I can alter some things myself now!). Unfortunately, I haven’t been able to knit recently because of some shoulder pain, but hopefully I’ll be back at it soon. What are you currently knitting?
Oh that’s such nice (and super productive) me time for your mat leave—wow and love that! I dream of knowing everything sewing, but for now knittings my ultimate anti-scroll. I’m currently on Ozetta’s Lakes Pullover; it’s not new, but it’s a good one! I hope your shoulders up to more v soon 😊
Thank you! Please share your Lakes Pullover when you’re done :) I love mine so much. It was such a fun knit to make!
Oh you’ve made one too! I’m in good company!
I can't seem to find any online sources describing it, so the following analysis is solely based on 40 years of experience as a handknitter and a casual observer of machine knit garments. The upper part of the neckline looks like it is shaped by decreasing a stitch on every row (it is what forms the line leaning outwards). Decreasing on every row always (in my experience – and I did it for two decades on all my socks) ALWAYS ends up asymmetrical because one of the decrease lines pulls open, as it has very visibly done on the light sweater. Without knowing the exact technical terms it has to do with the fact, that by "bunching up" yarn (the decrease is made by knitting two stitches together) you create af point of extra tension that pulls at the weaker stitch right next to it. Why it is asymmetrical probably has something to do with twisted tension nature of yarn (fibers spun in one direction) and thus being better at holding together a left leaning decrease than a right leaning. That is why normally you only se decreases on every other row in both handknitting and commercial knitwear because the row with no tension drama helps to pull everything nice and smooth. The interesting thing is, that the dark sweater seems to have a little bit of the same issue but on the other side(!) of the neckline. My theory is, that the designer had very little experience with knitwear and made poor construction decisions. In case of the dark sweater the manufacturer saved the day through some kind of experienced craftsman trick (possibly knitting from the wrong side since the issue is on the other side). Somehow the brief got lost or they changed manufacturer for the light sweater and no one at the brand knew to check for it.
Same. This happens when I’m knitting and trying to decrease. It always looks different on one side. While mot intentional, this may be proof that it was had knit.
Camilla — wow, 40 years’ experience, that’s incredible! Hopefully 40 years of joy too. Thanks so much for sharing your perspective, it’s really interesting to hear.
I’ve definitely seen this kind of unevenness in my own decreases too, Carolyn. But I can’t imagine these pieces are hand-knit. I didn’t think anything on the high street would be, and even at the higher end? I’d love to understand that better. Wouldn’t the body be knit in the round if it were hand-knit, just to save time, rather than seamed? Lots of questions…
Then again, even machine-knit pieces rely on the same stitching principles, so it does seem like a tension issue in the decrease stitches. The inconsistencies from piece to piece are harder to explain. But maybe the folded collar is attached individually?
My mother was a seamstress; you could say I grew up with a sewing machine, so I know fabrics and when something is sewn with care. I've always read fabric labels, which doesn't mean I don't make compromises sometimes. What outrages me most is the sewing of simple clothes from synthetic fabrics, selling them at high prices through intellectualization and marketing, and calling it design and fashion. This isn't fashion, these are just clothes with exorbitant markup. I always buy from sellers who accept returns without any problems, even if the price might be a bit higher than other sellers. Your lighter sweater had a visible flaw, and if anyone claims it was intentional, the designer should be fired for lack of design competence. Acne knitwear is the ultimate model for DESIGNING imperfections.
Thanks Pola! It sounds like you had the ultimate education (lucky you!) to set you up for discerning what’s well made and what’s not. And I agree with you on the intellectualization bit. I think the most insidious is the way brands explicitly spin cost-cutting decisions as ‘design features’ — it’s so, so off-putting as a consumer to be treated as stupid. I’m not sure who’s buying their rationalisation…it’s very curious.
At the same time, I do feel for brands having to deal with ‘returns culture’. It’s unsustainable on so many fronts and that there are customers who are abusing the system at the brand’s expense. I’m not sure what the answer is there, but a start is always going to be impeccable quality control + accurate product and sizing info from the brand, to reduce some of the issues for consumers.
I really liked reading this
So nice to hear that! 😊
Sorry for the delay - catching up!!! This was so well articulated. That idea that we’ve basically become our own quality control department really stuck with me. The inconsistency is what gets me. I can handle lower quality, but I cannot handle the unpredictability within the same item. This is a little similar (but different) - I just had it out with J.Crew over a pair of pants I love. I have them in several colors, and I went to wash them as usual… and they completely shrunk. Turns out they’re the only pair labeled dry clean only. I was pissed!!
Gee, my turn to apologize, I missed this or actually I feel like I replied but apparently not?! Anyway, thanks so much for your comment and I couldn't agree more with the annoyance of inconsistencies between the same item, including things sized differently that are indistinguishable. I also struggle with inconsistencies in quality from a single store - like one item seems really great value for the quality, and then another item seems like a total rip off for the quality....why?!
And boo for your pants - shrinkage sucks! Hope you were able to resolve that with JCrew.
Never apologize! They did me a solid, thank godddd!
I’m also one of the ‘bad’ customers. I pay close attention to quality stitching, finish and what I call the bikeability of a garment (that is its ability to be used while biking around Copenhagen where I live).
I’m pretty sure the stitching on your garment was not an intentional part of the design. It was rather a known production issue that is simply easier to work around when defined and explained to the customer as intentional design.
I know this issue from my own industry were manufacturers of certain pieces of equipment would claim – in this case – that something is a production flaw - rather than wrong design as otherwise thousands of owners of this equipment would suddenly have the right to a multi million dollar worth replacement.
Thanks Edwina 😊 It’s good to know I’m in good company as a ‘bad’ customer. Mostly we’re making these assessments of garments in the privacy of our own homes, and when brands push back on complaints, it’s not hard to imagine some consumers just put up and shut up.
It’s interesting what you say about manufacturing; that really resonates with my understanding of production too. With these sweaters both having identical flaws, it doesn’t feel like a stretch to imagine there’s an issue with at least part of their (re)stock. I’d be surprised if I were the first to notice. And you’re right, it’s easy to imagine they’ll still push to sell through any impacted stock because, business/$. Some customers won’t notice, and some won’t care.
But here’s to being ‘bad’ customers and hoping for higher standards.
Ps. Yes, bike-ability — that’s key functionality in your corner of the world!
The joy of getting something second hand from a brand I’ve never heard of, that is fabulous is incredible. As opposed to anxiously waiting for a new(far more expensive) piece from a well known brand, just to be disappointed is far more common. Although some pieces I bought new are also my favorites. Surprisingly several of them are Tibi. Yes, the prices are too high! My favorite new pieces are a cotton boyfriend shirt from Our Legacy and Levi’s selvedge 90’s jeans. It’s a crap shoot🫣
Oh, it’s such a crap shoot!! It’s also easy to get lulled into a false sense of security when you’ve been having a really good experience with a brand, and then boom: a piece that’s crappy quality. I think right from lower end of the high street through the middle market (and probably beyond, others will have to speak to that!), that there can be so much variability within a single brand, from one piece to another, and then from one garment to another. To shop second-hand, in person, so you benefit from early times when things weren’t so dire, and confirm first-hand that the quality it there….that’s the dream, if there’s time and good access for that.
I’m a professional sweater designer & experienced hand knitter- I’ve produced sweaters like the one you’re discussing many times.
The neckline has fully fashioned decreases- something that connotes luxury- which takes more work and time for the machine (or machine operator) to make that decrease. Because of how the knitting machine carriage moves, one side of the neckline could stretch more than the other. Linking on the doubled neckline could have also caused this stretching.
Knits, especially those that are 100% animal fiber like this, are very forgivable. If you hit that spot with steam, or washed and blocked the sweater, the issue would likely go away on its own. It is not a mistake at all or a sign of low quality- it is simply how yarn performs. The way this sweater is constructed is the nicest construction you can do.
Comparing light colors textiles to dark colored ones (even when all else is identical) is not apples to apples. Light colored yarn has to get bleached to get uniform color, which can make it feel thinner. Dark yarn has to hold a lot of dye, which can feel heavier.